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Todo el restaurante (sólo) para ti

restaurante mercès barcelona
restaurante mercès barcelona
mantelería mercès one barcelona
Manteles disponibles para vestir la única mesa.

Mentiríamos si no reconociéramos que nos puede la primera impresión. Cualquier local -y por extensión, sus platos- nos entra primero por los ojos y a partir de ahí empezamos a juzgar o dejamos de prejuzgar. Un restaurante lleno es signo de vitalidad y, a priori, de calidad. También es señal de razonables precios. Cuando predominan las mesas vacías, en cambio, ponte a dudar. Y si estás al frente del negocio, a actuar. Es lo que ha ocurrido en Mercès, que han hecho de la necesidad (de clientes), virtud. Considerando el catering y el servicio personalizado su verdadero fuerte, el restaurante anexo al deli de-toda-la-vida quedó en debilidad. Para reforzar este espacio y su posicionamiento, la propietaria Mercè Solernou decidió de forma unilateral y literal dejarlo en manos del cliente. Tal cual. Así surgió Mercès One, el último giro de un restaurante en el que prima la intimidad y la última palabra la tiene el comensal. Éste decide desde el menú a la mantelería, la cubertería, la vajilla e incluso la música y las flores -de quererlas- con las que vestir el centro de mesa. Por variedad no será…

Antonio Cornejo, fiel chef de la casa, renueva carta y menús del Mercès One con bastante regularidad y acusada estacionalidad. La obsesión de Solernou por la mejor materia prima y por aligerar las elaboraciones facilita las cosas en cocina, donde las reglas y la línea a seguir están bien marcadas. Caer en el disfraz o la distorsión del producto sería un error y de ahí unas propuestas que con los mínimos aderezos adquieren el máximo resultado. Predomina el clasicismo en la mayoría de platos, si bien el exotismo tampoco está ‘vetado’. La libertad de acción del cliente facilita los menús y la puesta en escena a medida. Al mediodía, por una simple cuestión de optimizar recursos, es más fácil sellar un precio también ‘al gusto’. Digamos que por la noche, en cambio, ya hay que contemplar ciertos pluses que pueden alejar al interesado del precio gastronomista (en torno a los 45 euros, en este caso). Todo dependerá del valor de la ocasión con la que se reserva este espacio. Porque el primero que apuesta por la única mesa, se la queda. Y entiéndase la mesa única como una unidad extensible (de las 2 a las 24 personas).

Ni que decir tiene que la sala está exenta de voyeurs y provista de todas las facilidades de un restaurante al uso. Hace ya más de 2 décadas que abrió sus puertas, pero su diseñador supo proyectarlo en el tiempo para que a día de hoy aún no resulte demodé. La acústica es excepcional y los metros cuadrados útiles pero ocultos, otro acierto. Siguiendo la lógica de la distinción, las atenciones en sala son otro aspecto a reseñar. Personificadas en Trini, otra veterana de Mercès, la marca mantiene el pulso de la reinvención desde la lograda (y bendita) constancia.

verduras truffa Mercès One Barcelona
Cilindro de verduras con trufa.
Milhojas de cítricos Mercès One Barcelona
Milhojas de cítricos.

 

carpaccio de patata Mercès One Barcelona
Carpaccio de patata con vieira.

 

Mercès One. Diagonal, 539-541. Barcelona.
Teléfono: 93 439 44 82.
Horario: abre todos los días previa reserva.
Precio medio: 45 euros.

[mappress mapid=»49″]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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La primera vez que se sentó a una mesa para contarlo en las páginas de El Mundo aún no se comía bien en los hoteles. Ha probado las mieles del oficio en una editorial gastronómica y en congresos especializados. Mata el hambre y la sed con las historias que encierran restaurantes, cocineros y emprendedores del buen vivir.

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