En un bonito rincón del barrio del Born encontramos este restaurante que consigue algo tan difícil como ser cosmopolita sin dejar de ser de barrio, donde se elabora la que –dicen los que saben– es la mejor quiche del mundo. Se llama La Verde y está hecha con espinacas y queso de cabra La Bûche de Chèvre AOC de Poitou-Charentes.
Está tan rica y es tan fina y equilibrada que la Association pour la Protection de la Quiche (APQ) le otorgó en su día nada menos que el Premio Quiche of the Year. «Está muy buena, pero no estoy seguro de si es la mejor que tenemos», bromea su propietario, el francés Franck Belly, incapaz de elegir entre todas sus criaturitas.
Un premio merecido, ya que en The Pan’s Club absolutamente todo nace del amor, cosa que aunque suene trillada se acaba reflejando tanto en sus platos (una selección de quiches y entrantes ligeros y saludables) como en su ambiente.
Del amor de Franck Belly hacia su mujer, Fabienne Suc (también socia en The Pan’s Club), a quien conoció hace unos años una noche cualquiera en la Plaça Reial y le impulsó a tomar la decisión loca de quedarse en Barcelona para cambiar por completo de vida. Y también del amor de Belly por la cocina, por el producto fresco, por la buena vida y por esa manera tan mediterránea de estar en el mundo que se siente en todo momento cuando se atraviesa la puerta de The Pan’s Club.
Se trata de un pequeño local típico del Born, abierto a la calle y con un mostrador repleto de quiches multicolores, que podremos ir probando en función de cómo tengamos el día. ¿Nos apetece una comida consistente? En La Lorraine encontramos jamón York o bacon con Emmental IGP de Auvergne, que demuestra que aquí los ingredientes se seleccionan con primor, siempre mirando hacia Francia.
¿Preferimos algo ligero? La Griega, con espinacas y queso feta DOP es una buena opción. O La Friandise, con tomates confitados y frescos, rúcula y albahaca. ¿Nos apetece unir Francia e Italia en un solo plato? La Athina lleva tomates confitados y frescos, albahaca, rúcula y una deliciosa mozzarella Fior di Latte.
Todas son sabrosas, equilibradas y consistentes y cuestan 4,90 €, un precio más que ajustado teniendo en cuenta su calidad (y su tamaño) que Belly se resiste a cambiar porque, como se puede apreciar desde que uno entra en The Pan’s Club, él es un artista. Si preferimos escoger su menú de mediodía, la oferta también es más que interesante: podemos probar dos de sus ensaladas, que van variando, y acompañarlas de una quiche y una bebida por un precio de 9,90 €.
The Pan’s Club está pensado para el take away, y son muchos los vecinos del barrio que son fieles a su cita con las quiches de autor, ya sea la mejor del mundo (La Verde) o algunas delicias como la Tartiflette, una de las preferidas de Belly, con patatas, bacon y raclette de Savoie IGP. Si deseamos comer en el local, este cuenta con un par de mesitas en su interior.
The Pan’s Club es, en definitiva, uno de esos locales que nos gustan porque lo tiene todo sin necesidad de giros ni filigranas, haciendo de la sencillez virtud, algo que a menudo cuesta encontrar en un panorama gastronómico cada vez más complejo. Buena materia prima de proximidad y temporada, platos sencillos y bien elaborados a diario en el restaurante de forma artesana y sin artificios, en forma de una cocina casera especializada en un plato (para qué mas) que con el tiempo han logrado bordar.
Y es que cuando decidió quedarse en Barcelona y abrir un negocio que le permitiese establecerse en la ciudad sin demasiadas complicaciones, Belly tuvo claro que existen platos que nunca pasan de moda y que gustan a todo el mundo, como la pizza, el sushi o la pasta y, por supuesto, la quiche. Y puso todo su empeño en una sola cosa: cocinar las mejores de la ciudad.
Atención a sus postres, porque siguen la misma línea que el resto de la carta. Casero y artesanal, tienen un adictivo brownie con la masa cremosa (si te gustan los brownies secotes, ni te acerques aquí), que por sí solo ya merecería una visita a The Pan’s Club.
The Pan’s Club. thepansclub.com
Plaça de la Llana, 16.
T. 93 513 84 14.
Horario: De lunes a domingo, de 12 a 19 h.


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