Buenas noticias: el chef peruano Omar Malpartida acaba de recalar en Barcelona. Lo hace con su marca Maymanta y en un precioso restaurante, con una terraza que puede presumir de unas de las mejores vistas de la ciudad.
Un local de altos vuelos en la planta número 19 del nuevo Grand Hyatt Barcelona, hotel que ocupa el edificio del emblemático Princesa Sofía (que luego pasó a llamarse Sofía a secas). Totalmente renovado, claro.
Y la reforma ha estado muy acertada al abrir el rooftop a todo el mundo (antes estaba solo reservado para eventos). La panorámica de su terraza es alucinante. El mirador, al estar en la parte alta de la Diagonal, abarca toda la ciudad desde Collserola al mar. Algo que ya por sí solo merece la visita.
Claro que la cocina de Omar Malpartida también valdría la pena por sí sola. El chef tiene a sus espaldas un recorrido de éxito en diferentes restaurantes: Tiradito Madrid, Barra M y Luma, en la capital, Maymanta Ibiza y Kaypa en Menorca. Ni que decir cómo borda los platos típicos de su país como el ceviche o el lomo saltado, combinando con sabiduría tradición y vanguardia.
En Maymanta, Omar nos lleva de viaje por la costa, la sierra y la selva de Perú. Su propuesta recuerda a las cevicherías, picanterías y asados amazónicos de su país, pero contando con la alianza de los ingredientes y la influencia mediterránea y sofisticando el resultado final, como corresponde a un cinco estrellas.
La carta arranca con un tapeo criollo donde podrás probar delicias como la croqueta limeña (elaborada con el guiso tradicional ají de pularda, cremoso de queso grana padano, ají amarillo y ceniza de cebolla) o la tortita de choclo (rematada con tartar de gambas, camaroncitos crujientes, sal de Maras, mahonesa acevichada de algas y yuzu y caviar de rocoto). Magníficas ambas en su intensidad y combinación de sabores.
La ruta cevichera es una gran protagonista en la propuesta del Maymanta. Incluye los típicos ceviches– en su versión criolla, amazónica o al gusto del consumidor, según la pesca del día- y tiraditos -de pulpo o atún-, amén de la clásica causa limeña.
La barra marina ofrece lo mejor de la pesca de proximidad. Entre las brasas y asaditos probamos un rico Pulpo, mole y aguacate (con el aguacate a la brasa servido aparte) y en la sección de Wok & Especialidades, no puedes perderte el Lomo saltado, con solomillo, cebolla y tomates ahumados, ají amarillo tatemado, patata amarilla peruana crujiente y arroz con choclo.
Otro de los hits del Maymanta Barcelona es, sin duda, la coctelería. No hay peruano sin pisco sour, la verdadera estrella de la carta líquida, como cabía esperar. En su versión clásica, con fruta de la pasión, con chicha morada o con frutos rojos, una vez empieces querrás probarlos todos.
El interiorismo también incorpora detalles peruanos que aportan calidez a la sofisticación del espacio.
MAYMANTA BARCELONA
Grand Hyatt Barcelona. Pl. Pius XII, 4. Barcelona
Tel. 935 08 10 00
Horario: Domingo a jueves de 12:30h a 00:00h; Viernes y sábado de 12:30h a 01:00h.
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