Cualquier visita a Zaragoza debe pasar por El Pilar. Pero como antes o después tendrás que comer o cenar, te recomiendo siete sitios donde hincar el diente. La mayoría están en el Tubo, la zona más gastronómica de la ciudad: en apenas cuatro calles hay más de 50 restaurantes que los maños frecuentan para ir de tapas de local en local. En esta breve selección, hay algún que otro establecimiento no muy lejos de allí que merece la pena visitar. Estas son mis 7 recomendaciones.
1. Casa Lac
Empiezo por el más antiguo de la ciudad que, además obtuvo la primera licencia de restaurante de España (1825). Lo creó un soldado francés que se instaló en la ciudad. Hoy en día, maneja la carta Ricardo Gil, que apuesta por las verduras (tienen un menú temático). Atmósfera señorial, decimonónica, tanto en la sala a pie de calle, donde se tapea, como arriba, cuyo espacio te transporta a épocas pasadas.
Hay que pedir la penca de acelga rellena de jamón ibérico y velouté de hongos (foto), y la duquesa de patata y borraja con quinoa.
Calle de los Mártires, 12. Teléfono: 976 39 61 96.
restaurantecasalac.es
2. El Méli del Tubo
Uno de los restaurantes más exitosos de la ciudad. Siempre está a reventar, y ese ambiente lo hace especial. También sus tapas, bien presentadas, que ganan un concurso tras otro. Por ejemplo, en el 2014 Cave Ovum fue elegida la mejor mediterránea de Zaragoza, la segunda mejor de Aragón y una de las 50 mejores de España en el concurso nacional celebrado en Valladolid: es una pasta brick rellena de huevo, salteado de setas con salsa carbonara y torrezno.
Pero hay más: gyoza de conejo escabechado (foto), burger de rape y gambas, patata asada rellena de ternasco… Se pueden degustar abajo, de pie, y arriba, sentado. No aceptan reservas.
Calle de la Libertad, 12. Teléfono: 876 16 36 26.
melimelozaragoza.com/meli_tubo.html
3. Uasabi
¿Un restaurante nikkei como recomendación en un ruta gastronómica por Zaragoza? Pues sí, porque emplea producto local en sus recetas: ternasco, borraja, cebolla de Fuentes… En ningún otro lugar podrás probar un maki de borraja y cebolla de Fuentes en tempura con ternasco. Ni una borraja en tempura con mayonesa de soja.
Mención aparte merece el ceviche nikkei al estilo japonés, con corvina y chicharrón de calamar. Uasabi, pese a ser pequeñito, tiene una barra para tapeo y una sala con muy pocas mesas donde comer sentado.
Calle del Cuatro de Agosto, 18. Teléfono: 976 39 47 66.
uasabi.net
4. La ternasca
Si el ternasco es uno de los productos estrella de Aragón, La ternasca es su templo. Este bar con aspecto de los de toda la vida tiene una barra (es la foto que abre este post) en la que te costará elegir por la enorme variedad de recetas que propone con el ternasco de la DO Aragón.
Aquí lo cocinan de mil y una maneras: carillón, churrasquito, guisado, revuelto meloso con coco y foie, callos, arroces, croquetas… La Churra fue la tapa que ganó el concurso del Tubo del 2017: costillar bajo cocinado a baja temperatura y laqueado.
Calle de Estébanes, 9. Teléfono: 876 11 58 63.
laternasca.com
5. La flor de almíbar
Otro local viejuno, a pocos metros del Tubo, que merece la pena visitar. Realmente, es impresionante. Inaugurado en 1856, mantiene la espectacular marquetería original inspirada en el antiguo Egipto. En aquella época, una casa barata valía unas 1.000 pesetas y la decoración de La flor de almíbar costó 3.000.
Lo típico aquí es comprar las frutas de Aragón, unos dulces de fruta confitada (melocotón, albaricoque, pera, ciruela, naranja, cereza) cubiertos con chocolate. Se compran a granel y no puedes escoger el sabor. También son especialistas en guirlache, un turrón duro de almendra con azúcar. ¡Abre cada día del año!
Calle de Don Jaime I, 21. Teléfono: 976 29 85 24.
fantoba.com
6. Mi habitación favorita
Otra agradable parada en la ruta es esta cafetería cuqui donde cada detalle se mima a tope. Hacen sus propios pasteles. Y sus propias mermeladas, muchas de ellas premiadas a nivel mundial (han ganado cinco medallas en los World’s Original Marmalade Awards, los premios más prestigiosos de mermelada del planeta); flipé con su creatividad: limón y ron, naranja con vermut, pomelo con jengibre, clementina con clavo, tomate y chile, manzana y mora, melocotón con grosella, frambuesa, fresa y vainilla.
También sirven café de especialidad, batidos, smoothies, sándwiches y bagels, y venden miel de la siera del Moncayo. Está en el Hotel Sauce, pegadito al Tubo.
Calle de Espoz y Mina, 33. Teléfono: 976 20 50 50.
mihabitacionfavorita.com
7. River Hall
Y para acabar (o comenzar) la ruta mientras se contempla una panorámica de Zaragoza y de El Pilar desde el Ebro, propongo River Hall. Este restaurante ocupa la cuarta y quinta planta de un edificio multiusos. Su sala acristalada sobre el río y su enorme terraza son espectaculares. En el plato, mucho producto de Aragón y mucha técnica.
Y mucho trampantojo (puedes pedir un menú con platos que te engañan la vista). Destaco un par de platos: las piedras del río Ebro que en realidad es un queso y la velouté de cebolla, que parece un dry martini pero no; está calentita, es espesa y el umami del jamón de Teruel le da el toque definitivo.
Avenida de José Atarés, 7. Teléfono: 976 52 54 80.
riverhall.es














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