Nos apetecía compartir un artículo de buenos augurios para esos locales que hemos probado en el último año y que, a nuestro juicio, merecerían también el reconocimiento de la Guía Michelin.
Que así sea en su edición de 2023, que se anuncia el próximo 22 de noviembre en Toledo.
Ahí estaremos para comprobar qué acertados, o no, estuvimos con este post.
Que arroje luz, o en su caso brillo, sobre todo el talento que acumulan tanto España como Portugal.
Ésta es nuestra particular apuesta o selección, ordenada alfabéticamente:
Aleia (Barcelona).
La llegada del chef Paulo Airaudo al Casa Fuster de Barcelona sólo traerá buenas noticias para el hotel, dotado finalmente de una cocina con firma y futuro.
Se distingue Airaudo por saber seducir y convencer a la Guía Roja en tiempo récord con sus planteamientos sobre el plato y la sala.
Así que Aleia, con el chef Rafa de Bedoya al frente, no podía ser menos.
Menús de autor con producto local, técnica y preciosismo; y una sala siempre al quite.
Sin aristas ni peros o pegas.
Una estrella de libro.
Passeig de Gràcia, 132. Barcelona
CanCook (Zaragoza).
Si en nuestra primera visita ya nos gustó; en su nuevo emplazamiento nos encantó.
La restitución de la estrella que perdió básicamente por el reciente traslado estaba cantada.
Lo que debería hacer ahora la guía es premiar a este restaurante gastronómico con su segunda estrella.
En nuestra modesta opinión, la merece.
Hay creatividad en la cocina a la vista, mucha sala, impecable servicio y una sólida propuesta de conjunto entre el chef Ramsés González y el maître, Diego Millán, y su jovencísimo equipo.
León XIII, 2-4. Zaragoza
Cocina Hermanos Torres (Barcelona).
Si tuviéramos que apostar también por un nuevo tres estrellas, este año optamos por la “nave de los sueños” que los hermanos Javier y Sergio Torres tienen en Barcelona.
Su cocina ha crecido exponencial y creativamente casi tanto como su nuevo local de 800 m2 vestidos con la última tecnología para dotar a sus servicios de una asombrosa transparencia.
Firmes candidatos a la tercera estrella en los dos últimos años, creemos que han demostrado sobradamente su evolución ascendente para conseguirla.
Taquígraf Serra, 20, Barcelona.
Desde 1911 (Madrid).
Un templo del producto surgido de la chistera de Pescaderías Coruñesas. Del mar, concretamente.
No es que esta tipología de restaurantes sean los predilectos de la Guía Michelin, pero es que en este se hacen tan bien las cosas que creemos que una estrella sería un reconocimiento más que justo.
El menú cambia cada día en función del género, que es maravillosamente tratado ya sea en horno, parrilla o de cualquier otra forma.
La dupla formada por el cocinero Diego Murciego y el jefe de sala Abel Valverde funciona como un reloj.
Una experiencia para recordar.
Vivero, 3. Madrid..
Erro (Arrazola, Bizkaia).
En un precioso caserío al que se llega tras gastar bastante rueda, es donde recibe y cocina el joven Jorge Asenjo.
El otrora chef del Galerna de San Sebastián se refugia ahora en el interior de Bizkaia para dar vida a su proyecto más personal en solitario.
Lleva apenas medio año en su nuevo emplazamiento, pero con la Michelin nunca se sabe…
En Erro mantiene intacta sus raíces y cuida y cocina el entorno para ofrecer un menú degustación que dice mucho del propio Asenjo.
De su conocimiento de la gastrobotánica, de su empeño por lograr el mejor producto de la zona, y de su sensibilidad para con cada emplatado.
Una estrella -también verde- con fundamento.
¡Crucemos los dedos!
Artecalle Kalea, 9. Arrazola, (Bizkaia).
Kappo (Cascais, Portugal).
En este listado no podíamos olvidarnos de Portugal, destino tanto a más gastronómico que nuestro país, aunque la Guía Roja lo subestime edición tras edición.
De entre todo lo que probamos allí durante los últimos meses destacamos especialmente el Kappo que el chef Tiago Penao tiene en Cascais.
Un japo tan delicado como sublime.
Una barra y pocas mesas para dejarse llevar por su cocina ‘omakase’. que respeta los principios de la alta cocina nipona para adaptarlos a su culinario con muchísima personalidad.
Nos gustó confirmar cómo sus bocados te transportan a un imaginario gastronómico poderoso y lejano con también el mejor producto local.
Una propuesta intimista que ojalá la Michelin dote de su primer brillo.
Av. Emídio Navarro, 23A. Cascais, (Portugal).
Le Bistroman (Madrid).
Ahora que la cocina francesa vuelve a ser respetada y reivindicada quizá sea el momento de premiar apuestas como Le Bistroman.
En la misma ubicación que el desaparecido La Candela Bistró, que también tuvo una estrella (¿casualidad?, ¿augurio?), el proyecto de Miguel Ángel García Marinelli cuenta con la solvencia de Stéphane del Río en la cocina sacando platazos sin fallo. Desde el soufflé de queso Comte hasta el pichón en tres pases -uno de los mejores que hemos probado-, pasando por una surtida bodega y un eficiente servicio en sala, todo aquí huele a estrella. Una apuesta sensacional.
Amnistía, 10. Madrid.
Mont Bar (Barcelona).
Este coqueto a la par que discreto restaurante de seriosísima cocina llega a su décimo aniversario con alegría.
Por un lado, la que otorga contar con el Cuiner de l’Any 2022 o cocinero del año en la figura del chef Fran Agudo.
Por otro, la que aporta un público fiel junto a un turista interesado en lo que se cuece en una cocina tan diminuta como creativa.
Mont Bar ha demostrado una solidez y una firmeza inusitadas tras una trayectoria marcada por distintos cambios al frente de la cocina.
Agudo ha traído más creatividad al proyecto, que mantiene en carta sus clásicos, a petición también de la clientela habitual.
Bocados con chispa y mucho sabor desde el aperitivo hasta el postre, con una sala que sabe estar en su sitio.
Diputació, 220. Barcelona
Montia (San Lorenzo del Escorial, Madrid).
La de Dani Montia, ahora ya en solitario, es una de las cocinas más comprometidas con el oficio artesano y el entorno que encontrarás a las afueras de la capital.
De ahí también su concepción pretendidamente “naturalista”.
En un nuevo y céntrico local de clara inspiración nórdica, Montia ha conseguido dar forma a una manera muy suya de entender la gastronomía.
Con honestidad, conciencia y sentido común.
Con cultivos propios ‘in situ’ y la implicación de casi todo su personal en cada servicio.
Con suma transparencia a la hora de cosechar parte de los frutos que requieren, pero también reportan, sus dos menús degustación –Largo o XL-.
Ambos suponen un desfile de bocados, a cual más creativo, con profusión de orgullo local: desde los platillos o platos donde se sirven, al pan que llega pronto a la mesa; los distintos aderezos e incluso los vinos naturales de cada maridaje.
Una propuesta tan cálida como brillante, digna de estrella, que ojalá se sume a otra verde.
Juan de Austria, 7. San Lorenzo de El Escorial (Madrid).
No Drama (Madrid).
La cocina de Le Xef, alias del chef Pablo Fernández, nos parece de las más calladas a las par que interesantes de Madrid.
Su cocina viajada, a la que uno se asoma también desde una codiciada barra sugiere evocaciones y alegrías varias.
Las recogimos en este otro post de hace ahora ya unos meses.
Slow & Low (Barcelona).
En este último caso, lo mejor será que leas el post que dedicamos al restaurante hace apenas unos días y que resume a la perfección su momento actual.
También justifica que lo incluyamos entre nuestras apuestas de ‘estrellables’ para la Guía Michelin 2023.
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